Ausangate

Let me begin by saying that we were a bit disappointed in ourselves... Not because of our current joblessness or lack of ambition, but because every time we spoke to fellow travelers about our visit to Machu Picchu, they would always ask which trek we did, and if we were lucky enough to trek the Inca Trail. Well, we didn't do a trek to Machu Picchu. And we were not lucky enough to trek the Inca Trail. When we first started researching treks to Machu Picchu, the earliest available dates to trek the Inca Trail were in November. So, instead, we took the train and loved every minute of it... if you don't believe me, read (or re-read) our last blog entry.

Yes, in retrospect, we rule.

However, after nearly a month in Peru, we were yet to tap the bottomless trekking keg that is the Peruvian Andes. Some of the best hiking trails and treks in the world are located in the Andes, so I hit the books to figure out which ones were worth our precious time. Depending on the source, two treks in South America consistently rank as two of the 10 best treks in the world. In Chile, the Patagonian Torres del Paine trek is supposed to be the experience of a lifetime. We will be sure to write a blog about that one in the months to come. In Peru, the Inca Trail always get a shout out. That said, it usually get a shout out for its final destination, Machu Picchu, rather than the hike itself. The problem with the Inca Trail is that every day a fresh group of 500 people hit the trail at the same time. Then you walk single file (through incredible scenery and historical ruins) for 4 days. Since we have already visited Machu Picchu, we felt no need to walk single file for four days to do so again. So, I dug a little deeper...

While digging, I couldn't ignore the little voice inside my head saying, "Go big... or go home." Word! We didn't travel all this way to walk to a set of ruins you can get to by bus! If we were going to trek, we were going to trek someplace that no tour group could bus to, someplace that would force us to challenge ourselves in every step and provide opportunities for enlightenment around every corner. It turned out there was a 14 day trek near a the town of Huarez that would allow us to hit some crazy altitudes and kick back with ice axes and cramp ons on snow covered peaks... Unfortunately, that would have been a little too big... and sent Marisa home. Fortunately, I found a 5 day trek considered as one of the 10 best treks in the world around the sacred Inca mountain "Apu Ausangate" in the high Peruvian Andes about 100km southeast of Cuzco. On top of that, through the South American Explorers Club in Cuzco, we found the best guide in all of Peru to take us on our trek. No joke, his name is Miguel Jove and he is hands down the best... this fact has been confirmed and corroborated.

We joined the South American Explorers Club in Cuzco because we heard that we could get discounts on restaurants, hostels and tours throughout South America. Also, members submit first hand accounts of all the treks throughout Peru. One day, we were flipping though some trip reports and we wanted to talk to someone who had done a few of the treks... In walks Miguel! At 31 years old, Miguel has hiked every inch of the Peruvian Andes, as well as portions of Bolivia and Ecuador. Of all the treks in Peru, he mentioned that the Ausangate circuit was his hands down favorite and he recommended a few tour groups we could look into. Then, a few minutes before we were going to leave and track down a tour operator, Miguel asked us what dates we were planning on hiking. We were like, "I dunno... tomorrow." He laughed and checked his schedule. Although he had just returned from a week long trek the night before, he said that he had two free weeks before a group of 16 British Special Forces flew in for a high altitude trek... so if we wanted, he could take us on a trek around Ausangate. Awesome! A couple other people overheard our conversation and immediately hopped on board the party train to Ausangate. A couple from Santa Cruz and an older dude who would never shut his mouth, then turned out to be super sketchy and eventually flaked... good thing too, cuz the dude had a decent sized gut and I don't think he could have pulled off a 5 day trek at altitude. Thankfully, the couple from Santa Cruz, Brad and Elaine, absolutely rocked!

The day before we left, Miguel took us to a black market to stock up on much needed cold weather clothes for the trek. While walking through the black market, we had like 50 different people stop us and remind us that we needed to be super careful because we look like tourists and we are going to get robbed. Funnily enough, they each told us how we would be robbed too. And each one told us the same story, which I will relate to you now...

At the black market, they don't just pick pocket or slash your bag, a group of dudes surround you, then one hawks a loogie into the palm of their hand and slaps you across the face. Slap! So, not only did you just get slapped, which can be pretty disorienting, you now have spittle dripping down the side of your face. Then, the good samaritans that they are, all the other dudes come over and start wiping off your face and your clothes and your bag and your wallet and your money and your jewelry. Job well done. Honestly, everyone told us the same story... we started to wonder if they were the ones doing the robberies. All in all, the black market was pretty cool tho, Marisa scored a $150 waterproof jacket for $25... it was definitely stolen.
Day 1: Tinqui

The next day, Day 1, we hopped a bus to the town of Tinqui (3800 m; 12,500 ft), the closest town to Ausangate. The town of Tinqui isn't really a town. In fact, the road didn't even go there until about 6 months ago. Interestingly, in the span of 6 months, the town has changed completely. People used to wear typical Andean clothing and there was one generator in the whole town. Now, everyone has access to more western clothing and with the new road came electricity and TV to each house.

We arrived in the late afternoon and walked around "town" while Domingo, our chef, and Alberto, or horseman, prepped for the evening. That night was the first of many filling gourmet meals, created solely on a two burner stove. Seriously, we were not expecting such luxury service on a camping trip. Domingo spent 3 years in culinary school and also turned out to be a certified bad ass. Not only could he cook incredible meals under crazy conditions, but he started to work after doing our hike in half the time.

Over the next few days, while the 4 of us struggled with each step, Domingo and Alberto, packed all our stuff on the horses, hiked twice as fast, cooked, cleaned and set up camp. These guys worked their asses off. With a title like "horseman" one might assume that Alberto rode a horse. Nope. He walked along side them in sandals... through the snow. Each night we wore 3 pairs of socks and still couldn't feel our toes. Alberto wore sandals and his feet were warm. I don't get it...
Every meal started with a soup, then an entree and a desert to finish. We started the trek with fried trout and potato puree. Mmm. That night we learned that a sub-zero mummy bag would soon become our best friend.

Day 2: Upis

Our day started to the smell of breakfast cooking and the sound of Domingo chopping at 4:30 am... not to mention the rooster crowing right next to our head. And it was freezing! We hiked from the town of Tinqui to an area called Upis and camped at 4430m, or 14,500 feet, definitely a record for us both. Like clockwork, everyday after lunch around 12:30 the clouds would roll in and the temperature would drop 30 degrees in a matter of minutes. We hiked through the snow for the last 2 hours of the day.
Our campsite was impressive. It not only included sleeping tents, but a huge dining/kitchen tent and even a shitter tent.
Day 3: Arapa & Apachata

Our day started like every other, finally sunny and warm(er), but this time our luxurious chef woke us up with steaming coca tea in our tent. At this point, coca leaves and tea were still exciting. For those unfamiliar with the leaves, they have been used for centuries to treat and prevent altitude sickness, along with the well-needed kick in the ass. We drank a ton of tea and chewed on the leaves like tobacco.

We hiked up to the first pass, Arapa, at a whopping 4800 m, or 15,750 ft.
Through some incredible scenery, around lakes and over tons of alpaca crap, we found our chef and horseman set up in our dining tent, lunch set and ready by a lagoon.
Per usual, the snow started again and we hiked the afternoon and over the second pass in the cold. Over Apachata, at 4850 m, and to our next camp site.
Since we were a good 500 m higher camping than the previous night, we finally experienced what it feels like to have your core frozen...and what real altitude sickness feels like. I booted. A lot. All night. And shivered. All night. Fortunately, I made it outside the tent for each boot session, but it was right next to our heads. The next morning a dog ate it. Gross.

Day 4: Palomani

Fortunately, the day we were going to hit our altitude peak, I had spent the night before booting and felt awful. I struggled to the top of the third pass, Palomani and we stood at 5200 m, or 17,000 feet!
We pretty much kick ass. This turned out to be the longest day of them all. Between the illness, and the fact that we hiked for about 9.5 hours, Day 4 was very long. It also ended with a surprise hill to the campsite. Marisa saw our horseman leading the gear up a hill and prayed that he was chasing the horses down because they were going the wrong way. No such luck.
Day 5: Q'Ampa to Cusco

We woke up on our last morning to the smell of a cake Domingo had baked. I know what you must be thinking. Where did he find an oven? Yeah...he slept by the 2 burner gas stove and slow baked the cake for 10 hours overnight.
Exhausted, we hiked our last day over the final pass, Q'Ampa, at 16,500 feet.
We practically ran down hill trying to get to warmer weather. I got rug burn on my heals. Not because I was running that fast, but because my boots didn't have any insoles and the only thing I could find at the black market before we left Cusco were some "insoles" which were actually carpet cut in the shape of a shoe. 2 nights sleeping in below zero temperatures leaves you very cold. We made it to our lunch tent around 1 pm, enjoyed our last enormous meal and hopped a bus back to Cusco.
Just to recap, this was an awesome experience. We hit our personal records for altitude. We hiked around one of the most sacred Incan mountains in Peru. Marisa had wanted to trek through snow capped mountains, and we sure had plenty of it. We got to experience firsthand, the way of life of the indigenous Quechuan people living in the high Andeas. Miguel, if you're reading this, thank you for showing us a piece of your country.

After weeks of being in and out of Cusco, we're finally leaving tonight on a 14 hour bus ride to Nazca.

Hasta Luego!

Mikey&Marisa